Twelve castles, château and fortresses across Europe where you sleep inside the history rather than visit it.
Spending the night in a building that predates your country is a particular kind of pleasure. A list of castle stays our editors keep returning to, sorted from grand and obvious to small and surprising.
Ireland
Ashford Castle, County Mayo
13th-century castle on Lough Corrib. Falconry school on site, a butler if you want one, and walking trails through 350 acres of estate.
Ballyfin, County Laois
A Regency house rather than a castle, but in the same conversation. 20 rooms, all of which feel slightly too good for you.
Scotland
Glenapp Castle, Ayrshire
On the southwest coast looking towards Ailsa Craig. Old-fashioned in the best sense, with a kitchen that takes itself seriously.
France
Château de Bagnols, Beaujolais
13th-century castle in the wine country north of Lyon, with Renaissance frescoes uncovered during restoration and a heated swimming pool tucked into the old moat.
Château de Mercuès, Lot
Above the Lot river. The Vigouroux family runs the hotel and the winery on the same hill.
Italy
Castello di Reschio, Umbria
Recent conversion of a 1,000-year-old hilltop estate. The bath house cut into the hillside is the most beautiful thing on the property.
Castello di Velona, Tuscany
11th-century castle above the Orcia valley, with a thermal spa using local sulphur springs.
Spain and Portugal
Parador de Cardona, Catalonia
9th-century fortress on a hill 90 minutes north of Barcelona. State-run hotel and very fairly priced.
Pousada de Óbidos, Portugal
Inside the walls of one of the prettiest small towns in Portugal.
Central Europe
Schloss Elmau, Germany
Bavarian Alps, with a strong literary tradition (concerts and writers in residence) and an enormous wellness floor.
Schloss Mittersill, Austria
Hohe Tauern park on the doorstep, falconry in the courtyard, and the kind of Alpine views that justify the steep drive.
Borgo Pignano, Tuscany
Not technically a castle, but a 14th-century estate worth bending the category for.