Carriacou island scene, Grenada
Uncrowded Escapes

Islands Without the Crowds

By Ellen Marais·April 2024·7 min read

Twelve islands worldwide where the daily arrival count stays in the dozens, not the thousands.

Islands have a natural visitor cap: ferry timetable and boat capacity. Some islands quietly use that to stay sane. Others are simply too far from an international airport, too small for a resort, or too honest about their weather to attract the package crowd. The result is a handful of places where the daily arrival count stays in the dozens, the beaches remain public, and the local culture has not been curated for photography.

Caribbean

Carriacou, Grenada

Forty-minute boat north from Grenada. Anse La Roche beach is empty most days, the boat-building tradition is intact and the local rum (Jack Iron) is dangerous. The island has no cruise port, no all-inclusive resorts, and a single main road that runs the length of the coast. Hillsborough, the main village, has a handful of guesthouses, a market that opens when the ferry arrives, and a cemetery with headstones that face the sea. The best afternoons are spent on the water: the reef off Sandy Island is shallow enough to stand on and clear enough to see the full drop-off.

Saba, Dutch Caribbean

A volcano in the sea with no flat ground, one airstrip (one of the shortest commercial runways anywhere), and a dive scene that ranks with the best in the region. The village of The Bottom clings to the slope at 250 metres, Windwardside sits slightly higher, and the single road connecting them was built by hand in the 1940s because no engineer thought a car road was possible. The trails are excellent: Mount Scenery is the highest point in the Netherlands at 887 metres, and the cloud forest at the top holds orchids and ferns that exist nowhere else on the island. Divers come for the pinnacles and the wall dives; everyone else comes for the quiet.

Indian Ocean

Rodrigues, Mauritius

Smaller, slower cousin of Mauritius an hour east by plane. Creole culture, octopus drying in the sun, and a lagoon you can wade across at low tide. The island is volcanic, hilly, and almost entirely surrounded by a reef that creates a shallow swimming pool of warm water on the windward side. Port Mathurin is the only town, with a market that sells dried fish, woven hats, and the local honey. The food is simpler than Mauritius: corn curry, octopus salad, and boulettes made from the fish caught that morning. There are no large hotels, and the few guesthouses are run by families who have been on the island for generations.

Pacific

Niue

An entire country on a single raised coral island, with about 1,700 residents, sea snakes you can swim with at Limu Pools, and the clearest water in the South Pacific. The island has no rivers or streams - rainwater filters straight through the porous limestone into underground caves and pools. Alofi, the capital, is a scattering of buildings along the west coast with no traffic lights and no need for them. The roads are mostly empty, the coastline is a series of chasms and arches rather than beaches, and the diving is exceptional because the coral starts almost at the surface and drops vertically into deep water. It is a three-hour flight from Auckland, and the visitor numbers reflect that distance.

Yap, Federated States of Micronesia

The stone money is real, the dive sites (Mil Channel, the manta cleaning stations) are legendary, and almost no tourist arrives without a clear plan. The rai stones, some of them four metres across, still hold value in traditional exchanges and are displayed outside meeting houses throughout the island. The culture is conservative: visitors are expected to cover their thighs in village areas, and the men still wear thu, traditional loincloths, for ceremonies. The manta ray dives operate year-round; the season peaks from December to April when the plankton blooms draw the largest numbers. The island has two small hotels and a handful of family-run lodges.

Mediterranean

Volcanic island of Linosa, Italy
Linosa, halfway between Sicily and Tunisia.

Linosa, Italy

Volcanic island in the Pelagie group, halfway between Sicily and Tunisia. The lentil crop is the local specialty. The landscape is black rock, low scrub, and a single cone that dominates the island from every angle. There are no hotels in the conventional sense: visitors rent rooms in the small village or stay in the one pensione that operates seasonally. The beaches are narrow and volcanic, the water is extraordinarily clear, and the loggerhead turtles lay their eggs on the southern shore from June to September. Access is by ferry from Porto Empedocle, roughly five hours, or by helicopter from Lampedusa.

Iles d'Hyères, France

Porquerolles in particular, with the strict national park status keeping the wilderness intact and bicycles the only way around. The island has a single small village on the north coast, a lighthouse at the southern tip, and a series of coves that require walking or cycling to reach. The camping is basic and the hotels are small; the restaurant scene consists of a few beach canteens and the single excellent vineyard cooperative. The best time is late September, when the day-trippers from Hyères have stopped coming and the water is still warm enough to swim. Port-Cros, the smallest of the three, is entirely national park and has no cars at all.

Atlantic

Corvo, Azores

About 400 people, one village (Vila do Corvo) and a vast green caldera at the top of the island. Twice-weekly flights from Faial. The crater is the main attraction: a bowl two kilometres across with two small lakes in the bottom, accessible by a single dirt track that winds up from the village. The houses in Vila do Corvo are painted white with bright trim, clustered together against the wind, and the social life revolves around the one cafe, the one church, and the cooperative dairy that produces a cheese highly regarded across the Azores. There are no hotels, only a few rooms in private houses, and the island's entire economy runs on agriculture, fishing, and the occasional visitor who stays longer than a day.

Saint Helena

Direct flight from Johannesburg twice a week now. Napoleon's exile residence, Jonathan the tortoise (around 192 years old) and a community of around 4,500 islanders. The island rises abruptly from the South Atlantic in a series of volcanic cliffs and deep valleys, and the interior is a patchwork of smallholdings, flax plantations, and cloud forest. Jamestown, the capital, is a narrow Georgian strip in a valley so steep that the houses on either side look like they are stacked vertically. The islanders, known as Saints, have their own culture shaped by isolation: a distinctive dialect, a strong tradition of shipbuilding, and a social structure that is genuinely welcoming but not performatively so. The flight from Johannesburg takes about six hours, and the runway is built on a plateau that required blasting through basalt.

IslandsSlow Travel

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