Twelve cities of under 200,000 people that still feel like cities, not towns. Worth a long weekend on their own.
Size is a poor predictor of character. Some small cities run small water channels through their streets, host major contemporary art and have student populations large enough to keep the bars open. A list.
Freiburg im Breisgau, Germany
On the edge of the Black Forest. The Bächle, those small water channels in the streets, are a 13th-century relic and a great way to cool your feet in August. One of Germany's greenest cities by policy.
Aix-en-Provence, France
Already on the Paris alternatives. The colour of the limestone, the fountains and the Cézanne studio above the town remain non-negotiable.
Heidelberg, Germany
Half-ruined castle on the hill above the Neckar, the philosopher's walk on the opposite bank and the oldest university in Germany. Twain wrote about it for a reason.
Coimbra, Portugal
Portugal's oldest university (1290) and the home of academic fado, which is sung exclusively by men in black student capes. The Biblioteca Joanina is worth the entrance fee on its own.
Trento, Italy
Alpine city at the south end of the Dolomites. The Council of Trent met here for 18 years in the 16th century and the MUSE science museum by Renzo Piano was added in 2013.
Vannes, France
Walled Breton town on the Gulf of Morbihan. The half-timbered houses around Place Henri IV and the Saturday market are the photographs Brittany sells.
Stavanger, Norway
Wooden white old town (Gamle Stavanger) of nearly 200 houses, the gateway to Preikestolen and Lysefjord, and the surprising oil museum that is genuinely well done.
Visby, Sweden
On Gotland, ringed by a 13th-century city wall that is still almost completely intact. Roses everywhere in July.
Maribor, Slovenia
On the Drava, with the oldest grapevine in the world (over 400 years) still producing fruit on the wall of a house in the Lent quarter.